Diving in the Philippines

The diving

Subic is all about history. The best-known wreck is the armoured cruiser USS New York, launched in 1891 and scuttled by the US Navy in December 1941 to keep her out of Japanese hands. She lies on her side in the middle of the bay, and she is big enough to need several dives to see properly.

Nearby are the San Quentin, a Spanish gunboat sunk in 1898 to block the bay’s entrance, a Second World War landing ship known simply as the LST, and El Capitan, a small cargo ship in shallow water that suits newer divers and photographers.

The Oryoku Maru, a Japanese ship carrying Allied prisoners of war when she was sunk in December 1944, also lies in the bay. She is a war grave, and many divers choose to visit quietly or not at all.

Rocky reefs and sandy slopes between the wrecks support plenty of reef fish, though wrecks remain Subic’s main draw. Visibility within the bay is modest compared with the open-ocean sites further south.

When to go

The calmest, clearest months are November to May. From June the southwest monsoon brings heavy rain, and runoff into the bay can cloud the water for days afterwards. Dive centres run all year, conditions permitting. Water temperatures follow the rest of the country, from about 26°C in February to 30°C mid-year.

Getting there

Subic Bay Freeport is about three hours by road north-west of Manila, depending on traffic, and around an hour from Clark International Airport (CRK). Hotels and dive centres are spread around the freeport, with most wrecks a short boat ride away.

Who it suits

Subic is best for experienced divers. Several of the wrecks lie deeper than 18 metres, and going inside any of them calls for proper wreck training. Advanced Open Water, Nitrox and a wreck specialty will let you see the most. El Capitan is the exception, and a good first wreck for newer divers.

Good to know

Good roads and plenty of hotels make Subic Bay Freeport, a former military zone, an easy weekend trip from Manila. Most wreck dives are guided, and dive centres usually visit the deeper wrecks in the morning.

If you are new to wrecks, a wreck specialty course here is a good investment. The mix of ships, from a 19th-century gunboat to wartime transports, makes for excellent training.

The diving

Anilao is a stretch of coast in Mabini, Batangas, together with the islands of Tingloy just offshore. Most dives are a short bangka ride from the resorts, onto coral slopes, rocky pinnacles and sandy bays. Well-known sites include Twin Rocks, a sanctuary with a resident school of jacks, Cathedral Rock, where divers placed a cross on the reef, Beatrice Rock, and Secret Bay, a muck site where patient divers find frogfish, ghost pipefish and the odd mimic octopus.

Anilao is best known for macro diving. The variety of nudibranchs is remarkable, and many photographers return year after year. It is also one of the places where blackwater diving became popular in the Philippines: night dives over deep water in search of tiny drifting larvae and other open-ocean life.

Behind it all is the Verde Island Passage. A 2005 study by Kent Carpenter and Victor Springer placed the central Philippines at the centre of the centre of marine shore fish diversity, and the passage is often singled out as its heart. You can feel that on almost every dive.

When to go

October to May is the main season, with the calmest seas. The southwest monsoon can bring rough water between June and September. Resorts remain open and diving continues on calm days, though some boat trips will be cancelled. Water temperatures are lowest in January and February, when a slightly thicker wetsuit is welcome.

Getting there

Anilao is around two and a half to three hours by road south of Manila, depending on traffic. Most resorts arrange transfers from the city or the airport.

Who it suits

All levels. Calm sites work well for new divers and courses, while photographers and macro enthusiasts can happily spend weeks here. Strong currents at some sites around the islands make them better suited to experienced divers with a local guide.

Good to know

Anilao’s reefs are protected by a network of local marine sanctuaries, and divers pay small environmental and sanctuary fees, usually collected by the resort or boat crew.

Divers from Manila make weekends busy, so visit during the week if you can for a quieter stay. Many resorts cater for photographers, with camera rooms and guides skilled at finding tiny subjects.

The diving

Most dive centres are based in Sabang and Small La Laguna on Mindoro’s north coast, with dozens of sites within fifteen minutes by boat. Divers come for the variety: gentle coral gardens, small boats deliberately sunk as artificial reefs at the Sabang Wrecks, sandy slopes for macro and fast drifts where the passage narrows between the islands.

The Canyons is the classic drift, a series of rocky gullies swept by current and full of fish, finishing at an old anchor encrusted with coral. Verde Island, across the passage, has a pinnacle that drops steeply into deep water. Both are for experienced divers who are comfortable in current.

The bays have macro life to rival Anilao across the water, with frogfish, nudibranchs and seahorses at many sites. Night diving here is excellent too, when octopus, crabs and shrimp come out to hunt.

When to go

Puerto Galera is dived all year. Its bays are sheltered from much of the swell that hits more exposed coasts, though the calmest months are still November to May. In the southwest monsoon some sites are skipped on rough days, and the dive centres simply switch to sheltered ones.

Getting there

The journey from Manila takes two to three hours by road to Batangas port, followed by around an hour by ferry to Puerto Galera. Several companies offer combined bus and ferry tickets from the city.

Who it suits

Everyone. The bays are good for courses and relaxed diving, while experienced divers have some of the best drift diving in the Philippines on their doorstep. The town is lively, with plenty of places to eat and stay.

Good to know

Puerto Galera was declared a UNESCO Man and the Biosphere Reserve in 1973, and visitors pay environmental fees locally.

Sabang is the busiest dive area and has a lively nightlife, while Small La Laguna and White Beach are quieter. Drift dives are timed to the tides, so dive times shift from day to day.

The diving

Apo Reef Natural Park is a ring of reef around a shallow lagoon, with a small island, a lighthouse and a ranger station. It is not to be confused with Apo Island off southern Negros, which shares the name.

The benefits of the park’s protection are clear. Whitetip and blacktip reef sharks patrol the walls, tuna and jacks hunt along the edge, and turtles are common. Mantas and larger sharks pass through on some days.

Most diving is along walls that drop away into the blue, with healthy hard and soft corals near the top. Currents can be strong, and conditions depend heavily on the weather, because the reef is exposed to the open sea. Visibility is often excellent, as the reef sits far from river mouths and the open sea keeps the water clear. Many visitors spend several days here to make the most of the trip.

When to go

The usual season falls in the dry months, roughly November to May, with many operators favouring March to May for the calmest seas. Trips outside that period depend on the weather, and cancellations are common.

Getting there

Day and overnight boat trips leave from Sablayan on the west coast of Occidental Mindoro, which you can reach by flying to San Jose and continuing by road. Liveaboards from Puerto Galera, Coron and elsewhere also include Apo Reef on their routes.

Who it suits

Experienced divers. Wall dives in current, open-ocean conditions and long boat journeys make it best for divers with Advanced Open Water and a good number of logged dives.

Good to know

Park fees are paid on arrival or through your operator, and divers are expected to follow the rangers’ rules.

There are no hotels on the reef, so day trips leave early, while liveaboards offer the most comfortable way to stay for several days. Pack for a long day in the sun, as boats may have limited shade.

The diving

Ticao Pass separates Ticao Island, part of Masbate, from the Sorsogon coast at Luzon’s southern tip. Manta Bowl is a broad, shallow plateau in the middle of the pass. Divers enter the water, descend quickly and hold on, often with a reef hook, while waiting for mantas to pass through the current. Eagle rays and big schools of fish also appear, along with the occasional whale shark.

Around Ticao Island itself the diving is gentler, with reefs and walls that see very few divers.

Donsol, on the Sorsogon side, offers a separate experience. Whale sharks gather in the bay in season, and the local tourism office organises supervised snorkelling trips. Scuba diving with whale sharks is not allowed there, and strict rules govern distance and group size.

When to go

Mantas are seen all year, most reliably from March to June. Donsol’s whale shark season usually runs from about November or December to May, peaking from March to May.

Getting there

Fly to Bicol International Airport near Legazpi, then travel by road to Donsol. Trips to Manta Bowl depart from Donsol or resorts on Ticao Island, which is also accessible by ferry from Masbate. Some Ticao Island resorts include transfers and operate their own Manta Bowl trips.

Who it suits

Manta Bowl is for experienced divers who are confident with fast descents and strong current, and Advanced Open Water is the minimum most operators ask for. The whale shark trips in Donsol are snorkelling only, so non-divers can join.

Good to know

Manta Bowl trips make for long days. The boat journey takes time, and dives are timed around the tide. Conditions can change quickly in the middle of the pass, so follow your guide’s judgement on when, and whether, to dive.

Whale shark trips in Donsol start with a short briefing, and each boat goes out with a spotter and a trained Butanding Interaction Officer who keeps the encounter calm for both sharks and swimmers.

The diving

There are around a dozen wrecks to dive, most of them large ships lying between about 10 and 40 metres. The Okikawa Maru, a tanker over 160 metres long, has its deck within easy reach. The Akitsushima, a seaplane tender and one of the few true warships here, still shows the crane that once lifted its aircraft. The Irako, a refrigerated supply ship, lies deeper and often has the clearest water. The Kogyo Maru, Olympia Maru and Morazan Maru round out a long list, and the shallow Lusong Gunboat can even be snorkelled.

Coron also has diving beyond the wrecks. Barracuda Lake, within the limestone cliffs of Coron Island, offers a strange and beautiful dive, with fresh water at the surface, salty water beneath and a noticeably warmer layer lower down. Reefs around the outer islands bring colour between wreck dives.

When to go

The best season is October to May. December to March has the most settled weather, and March to May the clearest water. July and August bring heavy rain and rougher crossings to the wrecks, though the more sheltered sites are still dived.

Getting there

Fly direct from Manila or Cebu to Francisco B. Reyes Airport (USU) on Busuanga, then take a road transfer of around 30 to 45 minutes to Coron town. Ferries also connect Coron with Manila and El Nido.

Who it suits

Experienced divers will get the most from Coron. Many wrecks are deeper than 18 metres, and going inside them requires wreck training and good buoyancy. Advanced Open Water, Nitrox and a wreck specialty are all worth having. Newer divers can still enjoy the shallower wrecks, the reefs and Barracuda Lake.

Good to know

Coron Island is the ancestral land of the indigenous Tagbanua people, who manage access to its lakes, and small fees are charged at each site.

Most wreck trips are full-day boat trips with two or three dives and lunch on board. The wrecks are now covered in corals and sponges and home to big schools of batfish and barracuda, so they are rewarding even if you never go inside.

The diving

Most divers come for one thing. Before sunrise, boats head out to Kimud Shoal, a submerged plateau around an hour from the island, and divers settle at the cleaning stations on its flat top, at around 12 to 15 metres. Thresher sharks, with their extraordinarily long tails, circle in to be cleaned by small wrasse. Nearby Monad Shoal, where the threshers used to gather, is now the place to look for tiger sharks, and mantas, devil rays and the occasional hammerhead turn up on the shoals too. Divers stay low and keep their distance, and flash photography is not allowed.

There is plenty to enjoy on the other dives too. Gato Island, a marine sanctuary off Cebu’s northern coast, has a tunnel through the rock where whitetip reef sharks rest, as well as seahorses, cuttlefish and many nudibranchs. Around Malapascua are coral gardens, macro sites and the wreck of the Doña Marilyn, a passenger ferry lost in a typhoon in 1988. Kalanggaman Island and its long sandbar make a fine day trip.

When to go

Malapascua is dived all year, and the threshers are seen in every month. December and January can be windy during the northeast monsoon, and the southwest monsoon brings more rain from July to October, but the island almost always has a sheltered side and few days are lost.

Getting there

The journey from Mactan-Cebu International Airport (CEB) takes around three to four hours by road to Maya at Cebu’s northern tip, followed by a 30 to 45 minute boat ride to the island. Malapascua has no cars, so you get around on foot or by motorbike.

Who it suits

The island suits all levels, with easy reefs and good macro. The thresher dives at Kimud Shoal are shallower than they used to be, at around 12 to 15 metres, but most dive centres still ask for Advanced Open Water, as good buoyancy keeps the sharks from being spooked. Nitrox is useful for more time with the sharks.

Good to know

Shark dives usually leave around 5 am, so early nights make sense. Most visitors stay at least three or four days to see the threshers more than once and try the other sites.

The island is small and easy to walk around, with a relaxed choice of beachside places to eat.

The diving

Sogod Bay is a deep inlet in Southern Leyte, with Panaon Island at its mouth. Padre Burgos, on the western shore, is the main base for divers. The best-known site is Napantao, a protected wall with big soft corals and plenty of fish. Limasawa Island, a short boat ride away, has more walls and quiet reefs, and there is good macro on the sandy slopes along the coast.

Whale sharks feed in the bay from roughly November to May, mostly around Pintuyan on Panaon Island. The local community runs encounters as snorkelling trips, with strict rules on distances and no feeding or touching. The season officially ends at the start of June.

Because few divers come here, sites are rarely crowded, and it is easy to feel like the only boat on the bay.

When to go

Diving in Sogod Bay runs all year. Its position on the Pacific side means the wettest months are December to March, the reverse of the west-facing coasts. Conditions are often good mid-year, when the west is rough. Whale sharks are around from about November to May.

Getting there

Ferries link Cebu with Maasin and Hilongos in Southern Leyte, and from there it is a drive to Padre Burgos. Alternatively, fly to Tacloban and allow three to four hours by road to the south. Most dive resorts in the area can arrange pick-ups from the ferry ports.

Who it suits

All levels. The reefs offer relaxed diving, with the rare chance in the Philippines to have a site to yourself. Non-diving family members can also enjoy a visit during whale shark season. Macro photographers who enjoy long, unhurried dives will find plenty to occupy them.

Good to know

Southern Leyte has far fewer dive centres than the big hubs, so it is worth booking ahead in whale shark season.

Limasawa is traditionally held to be the site of the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines, in 1521, making it a short historical stop between dives.

The diving

The sardines live along the drop-off directly in front of Panagsama, within easy reach of the shore. They are wild and are not fed, and on a good day the shoal folds and parts around you like smoke, sometimes pursued by jacks. Snorkellers can see them as well.

Pescador Island, a few kilometres offshore, is a small marine sanctuary ringed by walls with overhangs, crevices and a cave-like opening often called the Cathedral. Turtles are common on the house reefs, and the coast north and south of Panagsama has walls, coral gardens and macro sites with frogfish and nudibranchs.

Most dives start with a short boat ride or straight from the beach, making it easy to fit several into a day.

When to go

Moalboal is dived all year, and the sardines are there in every month. The calmest seas and clearest water come between November and May. The southwest monsoon can bring rain and choppier water mid-year, but conditions change less here than on more exposed coasts.

Getting there

Moalboal lies on Cebu’s southwest coast, roughly three hours by road from Cebu City and Mactan-Cebu International Airport (CEB). Take a bus from the Cebu South Bus Terminal or arrange a private transfer.

Who it suits

Everyone. Shore dives and calm conditions make it a good place to learn, and experienced divers have the walls and Pescador Island. It is also an easy base for snorkellers and non-divers. Many divers come for a few days and end up staying a week or two, as the mix of shore diving, boat dives and a laid-back town is hard to leave.

Good to know

Panagsama is a small strip of dive centres, cafés and guesthouses that is easy to explore on foot. Midday can bring crowds of snorkellers to the sardines, so early morning is the most peaceful time to dive.

Pescador Island is a protected sanctuary, and a small fee is collected for each visit. Kawasan Falls, less than an hour south, makes a good day out when you want a break from diving.

The diving

Balicasag is the headline. The island is surrounded by a protected reef that drops into deep water, with walls covered in hard and soft corals, turtles resting on ledges and a famous school of jacks that circles off the reef. Sites such as Black Forest and Diver’s Heaven are named for what you find: black coral bushes on one, and plenty of everything on the other. It can get busy, so many dive centres go out early.

Panglao’s own coast offers good reef and macro diving at sites including Napaling, Doljo and Arco Point. Cabilao Island, further north, is quieter and known for its walls and macro life, with diving possible through much of the southwest monsoon. Turtles are common throughout the area, while frogfish, nudibranchs and ghost pipefish appear on Panglao’s sandy slopes.

When to go

Diving runs all year. The calmest seas are from November to May, and the southwest monsoon mid-year brings more rain, which dive centres work around by choosing sheltered sites. Water temperatures run from about 26°C in February to 30°C mid-year.

Getting there

Bohol-Panglao International Airport (TAG) is on Panglao itself, with flights from Manila and other cities. Fast ferries from Cebu take around two hours to reach Tagbilaran, which is connected to Panglao by bridge.

Who it suits

All levels, with many dive centres, plenty of places to stay and lots to do on land, from the Chocolate Hills to Bohol’s tarsiers. The walls at Balicasag suit anyone with good buoyancy, and newer divers can stay on the shallower parts of the reef.

Good to know

Alona Beach on Panglao is the main hub, with dozens of dive centres within walking distance. Your dive centre usually arranges Balicasag’s sanctuary fee, and the reef can get crowded in high season.

Pamilacan Island, east of Panglao, is known for dolphin watching in the early morning, and many visitors combine it with a dive day.

The diving

The coast of Dauin, just south of Dumaguete, is a chain of small marine sanctuaries on dark volcanic sand. It looks bare at first, then reveals frogfish, seahorses, ghost pipefish, flamboyant cuttlefish and mimic octopuses, which is why macro photographers travel here from around the world.

Apo Island, around 30 minutes offshore, has one of the Philippines’ first community-managed marine reserves, protected since 1982. Its hard corals, turtles and big schools of fish show what decades of protection can achieve. We hold a permanent seat on the board that manages the protected area, and once a month we take everyone on base there for a day of fun diving. Siquijor, an hour away by ferry, offers walls, quiet reefs and a relaxed island pace.

Further south, along Zamboanguita, Siaton and Santa Catalina, are the marine protected areas where our survey teams work, carrying out more than 2,000 reef surveys a year. These reefs see few recreational divers.

When to go

Diving continues all year. November to May is the calmest period. The main rainy season begins in mid-June, but the heaviest rain lasts only a few weeks, and we keep diving and surveying throughout.

Getting there

Dumaguete airport (DGT) has direct flights from Manila and Cebu, and ferries link Dumaguete with Cebu, Bohol and Siquijor. Dauin is around half an hour’s drive south of the city, and our base in Zamboanguita a little further on.

Who it suits

All levels. Calm shore dives suit learners, photographers can spend weeks here, and experienced divers have Apo Island’s drop-offs and Siquijor’s walls. You can also join our volunteer programme to help monitor these reefs if you would like your dives to contribute to that work.

Good to know

Each sanctuary along Dauin’s coast and at Apo Island charges a small fee, usually collected by the dive centre or the local rangers. Boats cross to Apo Island when the sea allows, so it is worth keeping a day or two flexible.

Dumaguete is a relaxed university city with good food and easy connections. We follow Green Fins guidelines on our dives and touch nothing underwater except litter during clean-ups.

The diving

The park protects two large atolls, North and South, and the smaller Jessie Beazley Reef. Rangers are based there all year, and fishing has been banned since the park’s creation in 1988, leaving the reefs among the healthiest in the region.

Walls drop from the shallows into very deep water, covered in coral and patrolled by whitetip and grey reef sharks. Turtles are everywhere, mantas and eagle rays pass by, and big schools of jacks and barracuda hang in the current. Whale sharks and tiger sharks are seen on some trips. Visibility often reaches 30 metres or more. Well-known sites include Shark Airport, the wreck of the Delsan and Black Rock.

Trips typically last about a week, with three or four dives a day.

When to go

The season is the calm window between the monsoons, from mid-March to mid-June. Outside it, the park is closed to visitors.

Getting there

Liveaboards depart from Puerto Princesa in Palawan, served by flights from Manila and Cebu. The overnight crossing takes around 10 to 12 hours. Places are limited and boats often fill a year or more in advance, with a park conservation fee charged on top of the trip.

Who it suits

Experienced divers. Currents, deep walls and open-ocean conditions mean most liveaboards ask for Advanced Open Water and a minimum number of logged dives. Nitrox is widely available and well worth it. If it is your first liveaboard, Tubbataha is a wonderful introduction, as long as you have the experience to enjoy diving in current.

Good to know

Only a limited number of liveaboards are allowed each season, and rangers explain the park’s rules to visitors. There are no shops or facilities at the reefs, so everything you need must come with you on the boat.

The crossing can be bumpy, so seasickness tablets are worth packing. Many divers rate a Tubbataha trip as the highlight of their diving lives, and it is worth the planning.